Container Home Plumbing & Electrical: Complete Hookup Guide

HG Prefab units arrive with plumbing and wiring pre-installed — you only connect the external supply lines.

One of the biggest advantages of an HG Prefab folding container home is that the messy internal work — pipes in walls, wiring behind panels, outlets, switches, drains — is already done when the unit leaves our factory. What remains on site is connecting the external supply lines: water in, wastewater out, power in and (optionally) gas. This guide walks through each utility connection, explains the standards we build to, and helps your local contractor prepare the site before your unit arrives.

What comes pre-installed from the factory

Every HG Prefab expandable container home ships with a complete internal utility package. Here is what is already inside when the unit is unfolded:

• Plumbing: PPR hot and cold water pipes routed to kitchen sink, bathroom shower, basin and toilet; PVC drain lines with P-traps; shut-off valves at each fixture.
• Electrical: Copper wiring in conduits, distribution box with MCBs, LED ceiling lights, double-socket outlets in every room, water heater connection, air-conditioner spur.
• Gas (optional): Internal gas pipe with shut-off valve, routed to the kitchen hob and (if ordered) the water heater.
• Water heater: Electric or gas storage heater pre-mounted and wired/piped.
• External connection points: Clearly labelled stub-outs on the exterior wall — water inlet, drainage outlet, electrical inlet, gas inlet.

Utility hookup summary table

Water supply connection

The water inlet is a 25mm PPR (polypropylene random) stub projecting about 150mm from the exterior wall. Your plumber connects it to the local mains supply using either PPR pipe, PEX tubing or copper, depending on what is standard in your country. If your site has low pressure (below 0.15 MPa), a small booster pump at the source will ensure adequate flow to the shower and kitchen.

Mains water vs tank water

If you are on mains water, the connection is straightforward — run a pipe from the meter to the unit's inlet. If you are using tank water (common in rural areas), you will need a pressure pump or an elevated header tank. The unit's internal plumbing works at any pressure between 0.1 and 0.6 MPa.

Cold climates: freeze protection

In regions where temperatures drop below freezing, the external water pipe must be buried below the frost line (typically 600–1200mm depending on climate) and wrapped with heat-trace cable and foam insulation. The internal pipes are inside the insulated envelope, so they are protected once water is flowing.

Drainage and wastewater

The drainage outlet is a 110mm PVC pipe at floor level, designed to connect directly to a standard DWV (drain-waste-vent) system. You have three options for where the wastewater goes:

1. Municipal sewer: The simplest option — connect the outlet to the existing sewer line. A licensed plumber will install the required inspection opening and gradient (minimum 1:60 fall for 110mm pipe).
2. Septic tank: For rural sites, a 2000–3000L septic tank with soakage trench handles all household wastewater. The unit's drainage outlet connects to the tank inlet. Many jurisdictions require a minimum setback from the dwelling — check your local code.
3. Greywater recycling: If you want to reuse shower and basin water for irrigation, a simple diversion valve at the outlet separates greywater from blackwater (toilet). The greywater line goes to a small filter and then to the garden.

All waste fittings inside the unit — P-traps, toilet flange, shower drain — are factory-installed and sealed. Your contractor only needs to make the external connection.

Electrical connection

The electrical system is the utility that varies most by country. HG Prefab builds the internal wiring to your destination country's standard — 110V/60Hz for North and Central America, or 220-240V/50Hz for Europe, Australasia, the Middle East, Africa and most of Asia. When you place your order, tell us your country and we configure the distribution box, outlet sockets and light fittings accordingly.

How the connection works

On the exterior wall there is a weatherproof inlet box. Your licensed electrician runs a supply cable from your main switchboard (or a standalone meter/pole) to this inlet. Inside the unit, the distribution box with MCBs (miniature circuit breakers) splits the supply into lighting circuits, power circuits, water heater circuit and air-conditioner circuit. All circuits are pre-wired and tested at the factory.

Solar and off-grid power

If your site has no grid connection, the same inlet box can be wired to a solar charge controller and battery bank. We offer an optional off-grid solar package sized for your unit — see our off-grid container home guide for detailed solar sizing. The internal wiring remains the same; only the source changes.

Gas connection (optional)

For buyers who prefer gas cooking or gas water heating, the unit can be factory-fitted with an internal gas pipe terminating at a shut-off valve on the exterior wall. Your certified gas fitter connects the external supply — either an LPG bottle bank or a natural gas meter — and pressure-tests the system before commissioning.

Safety note

Gas fitting is strictly regulated in every country. Always use a licensed gas fitter, never DIY. The fitter must issue a compliance certificate after testing. The unit's gas pipe is sized for a standard domestic load (one cooktop plus one water heater) at supply pressures of 2.8 kPa (LPG) or 1.1 kPa (natural gas).

Site preparation checklist before your unit arrives

To make installation smooth, have these ready before the delivery truck pulls up:

• Foundation: Level concrete slab, piers or screw piles completed. See our foundation guide for options.
• Water: Mains connection or tank with pump brought to within 2m of where the unit will sit.
• Drainage: Sewer line, septic tank inlet or greywater system ready at the unit's drainage point.
• Electrical: Switchboard or meter pole installed, supply cable trenched to the unit's position.
• Gas (if applicable): LPG bottles or natural gas meter positioned and certified.
• Access: Clear access for a crane or forklift to offload the folded unit. Remember: a crane or forklift is required to offload the folded unit from the truck.

Timeline: from delivery to running water

Here is a realistic sequence for a standard residential installation:

1. Day 1, morning: Truck arrives. Crane offloads the folded unit onto the prepared foundation.
2. Day 1, midday: Four workers unfold and assemble the main structure in about 2 hours.
3. Day 1, afternoon: Plumber connects water inlet and drainage. Electrician runs supply cable to the inlet box.
4. Day 1, evening: Water heater commissioned, power switched on, lights and outlets tested.
5. Day 2 (if gas): Gas fitter connects and pressure-tests the gas line, commissions cooktop and heater.

In practice, many of our customers are living in the unit with running water and power within one day of delivery — one of the biggest advantages of factory-fitted utilities.